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Heavy fabric tended to pull the back of a skirt down and flatten it. As a result a woman's petticoated skirt would lose its shape during everyday wear from merely sitting down or moving about.
In the early stages of the fashion for the bustle, the fullness to the back of the skirts was carried quite low and often fanned out to create a train.
The transition from the voluminous crinoline-enhanced skirts of the s and s can be seen in the loops and gathers of fabric and trimmings worn during this period.
The bustle later evolved into a much more pronounced humped shape on the back of the skirt immediately below the waist, with the fabric of the skirts falling quite sharply to the floor, changing the shape of the silhouette.
As the fashion for crinolines wore on, their shape changed. Instead of the large bell-like silhouette previously in vogue, they began to flatten out at the front and sides, creating more fullness at the back of the skirts.
Crinolettes were more restrictive than traditional crinolines, as the flat front and bulk created around the posterior made sitting down more difficult for the wearer.
The bustle later developed into a feature of fashion on its own after the overskirt of the late s was draped up toward the back and some kind of support was needed for the new draped shape.
The bustle was worn in different shapes for most of the s and s, with a short period of non-bustled, flat-backed dresses from to The bustle reappeared in late , [6] and was exaggerated to become a major fashion feature in the mid and late s, in reaching preposterous proportions to modern eyes, as used in the play Arms and the Man by George Bernard Shaw.
The fashion for large bustles ended in The bustle then survived into the s and early 20th century, as a skirt support was still needed and the stylish shape dictated a curve in the back of the skirt to balance the curve of the bust in front.
The bustle had completely disappeared by , as the long corset of the early 20th century was now successful in shaping the body to protrude behind.
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